Most homeowners in the San Juan Islands think of their roof as a shield against the weather above it. That is only half the story. The air trapped underneath the deck matters just as much, and on islands that soak up roughly 40 inches of rain a year, poor ventilation quietly rots more roofs than any single storm. If you have ever seen a green carpet of moss creeping up a north slope or found a soft, spongy patch of plywood during a repair, ventilation was probably part of the cause.

This guide explains how airflow through an attic or roof cavity protects the structure, why our damp maritime climate makes it non-negotiable, and what a well-ventilated island roof actually looks like.

How a Roof Is Supposed to Breathe

A properly designed roof pulls cool, dry outside air in low at the eaves and pushes warm, moist air out high at the ridge. That continuous current does two critical jobs:

It carries away water vapor that rises from the living space below, especially from kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.
It keeps the underside of the roof deck close to the outdoor temperature, which prevents condensation and reduces ice buildup.

When that current stalls, humidity collects against the cold sheathing and condenses into liquid water. The deck never gets a chance to dry, and wet wood is exactly what fungus and rot organisms need to thrive.

Intake and Exhaust Must Be Balanced

Ventilation only works when intake and exhaust are roughly equal. A ridge vent with no soffit intake starves for air and can even pull conditioned air out of the house. As a rule of thumb, builders aim for about one square foot of net free vent area for every 300 square feet of attic floor, split evenly between low and high vents. Get the balance wrong and you get dead pockets of stagnant, humid air.

Why Island Moisture Is Relentless

Conditions here are tougher on a roof cavity than most of the mainland. Rain falls heaviest in November, but the real problem is that it rarely stops long enough for anything to fully dry out. Add dense Douglas fir canopy shading north-facing slopes, cool marine air, and long stretches of overcast, and you get a roof that stays damp for weeks.

Two failures follow directly from that persistent moisture.

Moss on the Outside

Moss loves shade, moisture, and organic debris. Shaded north slopes under evergreens are prime territory. Once a mat of moss establishes, it holds water like a sponge against the shingles, lifts their edges, and works granules loose. A poorly ventilated roof runs cooler and damper on the surface, which only encourages that growth to spread faster.

Rot on the Inside

While moss attacks from above, condensation attacks from below. Trapped vapor beading on cold plywood soaks into the sheathing, into the rafter tails at the eaves, and into any wood that stays wet. Over a few seasons this shows up as delaminating plywood, dark staining, a musty attic smell, and framing that gives underfoot.

What Ventilation Does and Does Not Fix

Ventilation is powerful, but it is one part of a system that also includes insulation, air sealing, and moisture barriers. The table below sets expectations.

Problem Ventilation Helps? Also Requires Attic condensation on deck Yes, directly Air sealing ceiling penetrations Moss on shaded slopes Partially Trimming trees, zinc/copper strips, cleaning Ice buildup at eaves Yes Insulation depth, ice-and-water membrane Rot in existing wet sheathing Prevents more Replacing damaged wood High summer attic heat Yes Radiant barrier, adequate insulation

The key takeaway: airflow prevents future damage, but it will not reverse rot that has already set in or scrub off moss that is already established.

Signs Your Roof Is Not Breathing

You do not need to climb into the attic to suspect a ventilation problem, though a look up there confirms it. Watch for these clues:

Frost or water droplets on the underside of the roof deck in winter.
Dark streaks or staining on the sheathing and rafters.
A stuffy, humid, or musty smell in the attic.
Rusted nail tips poking through the deck (a sign of repeated condensation).
Persistent moss that returns quickly after cleaning.
Blistered or prematurely curling shingles on a relatively young roof.

Any of these are worth a professional look. Homeowners searching for https://connervecb620.capitaljays.com/posts/how-to-choose-between-standing-seam-and-exposed-fastener-metal should start by asking whether their intake and exhaust are actually balanced, because adding one without the other often makes things worse.

Ventilation Choices That Suit Island Homes

Not every vent style performs equally in wind-driven rain. The west sides of the islands see wind roughly 20 percent stronger than nearby Anacortes, which matters when choosing exhaust.

Continuous ridge vent with baffles. The gold standard for most homes. Baffled designs resist wind-driven rain far better than plain ridge vents.
Continuous soffit vents. The best intake, as long as insulation baffles keep the airway open at the eave.
Gable vents. Fine as a supplement, but they can short-circuit ridge-and-soffit airflow if mixed carelessly.
Off-ridge or box vents. Useful on complex rooflines where a continuous ridge is not possible.

For unvented cathedral ceilings or conditioned attics, the answer is different: a sealed assembly with continuous insulation and no cavity to ventilate. That approach can work beautifully here, but it must be detailed correctly, because a half-vented, half-sealed roof is the worst of both worlds.

A Simple Maintenance Rhythm

Ventilation hardware is low-maintenance, but it is not no-maintenance in a forested, wet environment.

Task Frequency Why It Matters Clear soffit vents of debris and paint overspray Yearly Blocked intake starves the whole system Check ridge vent for storm damage After major wind Wind can lift or crack vent material Confirm insulation baffles are still open at eaves Every few years Settled insulation blocks airflow Remove moss and leaf litter As needed Debris traps moisture on the surface

Stay on top of these and the roof cavity keeps drying itself out, season after season.

The Bottom Line

On the San Juan Islands, a roof lives in a permanent state of damp. Ventilation is the mechanism that lets it dry out between rains instead of slowly cooking in its own humidity. Balanced intake and exhaust, wind-rated vents, and a little seasonal upkeep add years to the deck, keep insulation dry, and make it far harder for moss and rot to gain a foothold. It is one of the least glamorous parts of a roof and one of the most important.

About the Author

Marcus Halvorsen is a Pacific Northwest building-science writer who spent a decade diagnosing attic moisture problems in coastal and island homes. He focuses on the unglamorous systems, ventilation, flashing, and drainage, that quietly decide how long a roof lasts.

Metal vs. Asphalt Roofing for Island Homes: A Complete Comparison

Why Roof Ventilation Prevents Moss and Rot

Cedar Shake vs. Modern Shingles: Which Suits Island Homes?